Dog Stranguria or Straining to Pass Urine Dog Health

Symptoms which may indicate that a dog is straining to pass urine or in other words suffering from dog stranguria are:

1. Very little or no urine is passed. The little amount of urine that is produced will most likely contain blood.

2. May appear similar to dog constipation

3. The dog may strain to pass urine even after repeated attempts and will probably look uneasy or uncomfortable while passing it.

The urinary tract of a dog is separated into two different parts upper and lower. Stranguria is a condition which affects the dogs lower urinary tract.

The kidneys and uterus, the tube which carries the urine down from the kidneys, are contained in the upper urinary tract of the dog. The kidneys of a dog are to the left and right of their body. The left kidney is slightly behind the right one and both of them are located under the last rib just below the backbone. The function of the kidney is to produce urine, among other things. The urine that these kidneys produce travels down the uterus and into the bladder.

The lower part of the urinary tract consists of the vagina or penis of your dog, the bladder and the urethra which is a tube that takes the urine from the bladder through the prostate and out the penis or the vagina of the dog. The urine produces by the kidneys is collected into the bladder, which simply defined is like a bag. It has a very thin layer of muscle and the urine is collected and stored in it till it becomes full which results in this thin layer of muscles contracting and pushing the urine through the tube which is called the urethra. The urine then comes out of the dogs penis or vagina, thus completing the urination process

A problem in the lower urinary tract would most likely result in dog stranguria. This problem could be anywhere in the dogs urethra, its bladder or its vagina or penis. Several different causes may be responsible for dog stranguria and at times it may happen for no apparent reason at all.

For more information on dog straining to pass_urine and stranguria or Dog Health take a look at this Dog Training website.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_M_Williams

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The Off Command Or Dont Touch That Thing Youre Thinking About Touching

By Suzanne Harris

The way you train "Off" is a perfect example of the positive reinforcement mantra: Any behavior will increase with reinforcement, and any behavior will decrease without reinforcement. "Off" is a lot of fun to teach your pup, and its very helpful in many situations.

Some people use the phrase "Leave it" instead of "Off", but it means the same thing. Use "Leave it" if you prefer. Either way, "Off" will get your dog to

* stop jumping on people
* get off the couch
* stay away from that chicken wing on the sidewalk
* wait to grab something until you give the OK

If youre training a young pup, youll be amazed at how quickly he learns "Off". As a matter of fact, most pups under 5 months pick it up in less than 10 minutes. Thats not to say they will respond to it in all of the various situations listed above in that short time. But if you practice the following exercise in a wide variety of situations, locations, and distraction levels, your pup will master even these in a matter of 3-4 days.

Dogs older than 6-7 months often take a little longer to get it, but dont give up particularly in your first few trials. If you, the human, are patient and follow these instructions exactly, youll see the same wonderful results even with your older dog.

"Off" means "Dont touch that thing youre thinking about touching." We will also simultaneously be teaching him "Take it", which means "OK, now you can touch it".

Step 1: The "Off" and "Take It" Exercise

Put about 10 pea-sized soft pieces of food in your hand. Any meat will do, or soft cat or dog treats cut into pea-sized pieces. Crunchy kibble pieces take too long to chew for this exercise.

Sit on the floor or crouch down to your dogs nose level. Hold your pup back from you with your non-food hand, and hold your food hand out 1-2 feet in front of his face at his nose level or below his nose level.

Now once and only once, command "Off" as you open your food hand and let go of your pup.

When your puppy lunges for your food hand (very likely), simply close your hand. Do not repeat the word "Off" or say anything else, and do not move your hand around. Your pup will likely chew on your food hand for a few minutes, trying to get at the food.

Simply wait silently until he gets distracted or bored or for any other reason stops touching your hand for an instant.

The instant he stops touching your food hand, quickly say "Take it" and deliver one piece of food to his mouth with your non-food hand.

Repeat this exercise 10 times until your hand is empty. You are allowed to command "Off" only once during each trial, so for 10 exercises, youll say "Off" a total of 10 times. Just remember not to speak at all after you have commanded "Off" the first time until he moves away and you say "Take it."

Your pup will chew and paw at your hand for shorter periods each time before he chooses to move his face away from your hand, allowing you to say "Take it" and give him a treat. This shows that he is learning that moving away from your hand is the fastest way to get a treat.

Over the 2-3 days, practice a set of about 10 trials (as described above) several times daily, each time in a different room in the house or better yet outside in a low distraction area. Each trial, add tiny (1/2 second to 1 second) increments of time to the time between his moving away response and your "Take it" food delivery. By the second day you should also be withholding your "Take it" delivery until he has moved at least 5 inches from your hand.

Note: Some pups will sit when you say "Off". This is OK for the first day or two, but we dont want him to think that "Off" is just another word for "Sit". After the first day or two, try to train him out of his sit response by delivering the Take It treat just before he sits.

He may also be sitting because youre holding the food too high. Your food hand must be at his nose level or below nose level.

Never give your pup a piece of the food while he is touching your hand, nor before you have said "Take it". You may deliver the food to his mouth only while he is not touching your hand.

Step 2: Adding Distance and Time to "Off"

When he can hold his "Off" for at least 5 full seconds in several different locations inside and outside, alter the exercise in the following way: Command "Off" as usual and wait for him to move away. Now wordlessly open your food hand without saying anything.

If he holds his "Off" while your hand is open for 2 seconds, say "Take it" and deliver several treats one at a time, praising throughout because he just accomplished something big: Learning that no matter whats in front of his nose, "Off" means "Off" until you say "Take it." Gradually add more time and hand distance to each trial.

If he does not hold his "Off" for 2 seconds while your hand is open, its because most pups think that when you open your hand, thats the same as you saying "Take it". It is not. So if you open your food hand and he lunges for the food before 2 seconds have passed, quickly and wordlessly close your hand before he gets to your hand and wait again for him to back off. Once again, open your hand and wait without saying anything. If he lunges again, quickly close your hand again. Do not let him reach the food! This may go on for a while - you open your hand, he lunges, you close your hand and wait, he backs off, you open, he lunges, you wait, etc.

After a while, a light bulb will go off in his head and hell figure out that he must hold his "Off" until you say "Take it" even though there is an open hand of food in front of him. When this happens, hell hold his "Off" for the 2 seconds, and you may say "Take it" and deliver several treats one at a time to reward this wonderful accomplishment!

"Off" Generalization

The goal with "Off" is to get him to back off no matter what the item is and no matter where he is. Once he can hold a solid "Off" for 10+ seconds with your hand 10+ inches away at or below nose level in a wide variety of locations inside and out, youll start to lower your food hand toward the floor, 1 inch per trial, until he can hold a solid 10 second "Off" with your open food hand on the floor.

When hes mastered that, its time to try "Off" with food on the floor that you are not holding. This starts out the same way as before but now you simply put the treat on the floor instead of holding your hand open. The first few times you try this, dont stand up. Remember to practice this in a wide variety of locations inside and out before you move to the level of standing up which food on the floor. Its also a good idea to vary the distance between your dog and the food each time.

If he lunges for the food while its on the floor, hurl your entire body on top of the food to prevent him from getting it. Yes, Im joking here but dont let him get to that food before you can clamp your hand or foot down on top of it! We cant have him learning that hes faster than you are, can we?

Add distance from the food and add time from the food. Whenever you feel your pup has accomplished a very difficult feat, dont hesitate to reward him amply with several treats delivered one at a time with great praise and fanfare - he deserves it!

When Can I Use "Off" for Jumping, Couches, and Chicken Wings?

Once youve accomplished a 5 foot "Off" for 20 seconds, his response should be reflexive and you have earned the right to use the "Off" command for jumping, couches and chicken wings on the sidewalk. Congratulations!

"Off" is also excellent preparation for "Stay", which is also trained by showing your dog that the profit arrives when he displays self-control. As a matter of fact, Ive trained many dogs the "Stay" by simply combining a strong "Off" response with the command "Off-Stay" and gradually fading out the word "Off", but thats the subject of another article, here or at http://www.dogdaysUSA.com.

For more great dog and puppy obedience articles, go to http://www.dogdaysUSA.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Suzanne_Harris

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Potty Training Tips Potty training boys or potty training girls

Click Here - http://dld.bz/potty-training-tips Potty Training Tips - Potty training boys or potty training girls Start Potty Training Now - How To Potty Trai...

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Potty Training Tips How to Potty training boys or girls

Click Here - http://dld.bz/potty-training-tips Potty Training Tips - Potty training boys or potty training girls Start Potty Training Now - How To Potty Trai...

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Dealing With Incontinence In Older Or Infirm Dogs

By Jill Taylor

With better veterinary care and more knowledge in dietary and exercise needs, our pet dogs are living longer lives. In most cases this is an excellent upward trend. But we must also remember, that like us humans, the older the body, the less control over certain aspects.

Bladder control in older or ill dogs can become a serious issue for your carpets and flooring. There are a few solutions to keep your home neat, but first the cause must be determined. If your dog is suddenly urinating in the house, the problem may not be old age. First: establish whether there have been any major changes or upsets in the dogs life. Anything from a new pet, to new baby, to a nasty next door dog may cause your dog to "forget" that he is not outside. Second: take your dog to the vet for a check up. Your vet can determine whether or not there is a medical issue causing the problem. Third: try to watch your dog. Is he signalling to go out and youre not catching it? Does he/she seem anxious before or after an "accident". You know your dog better than anyone else. Look for behaviour changes in food and water intake.

Once you have determined that there are probably no other reasons for your dogs incontinence other than old age, you could be faced with a dilemma. How do you keep your older dog happy and healthy and your house clean at the same time? Confinement in one specific area is one way. Constant watching is another, but not very effect. The easiest and least aggravating to you and your dog is probably with the use of doggy diapers and doggy belly bands. Your dog will get used to wearing these very quickly, and if you dont want them as visible as most, then look for colours that will blend into your dog as much as possible. For the elderly or ill dog, I would suggest a washable, reusable diaper over the disposable kinds for cost savings.

Doggy diapers and belly bands may seem like a fad to most, but for the owners of elderly dogs, ill dogs, rescue dogs and female dogs in heat, they can mean the difference between living happily with your dog and keeping your home clean.

Jill Taylor - http://www.dogsuppliessite.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jill_Taylor

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Dog Pyometra and Uterine or Womb Infections Dog Health

The symptoms to look out for in case of suspected Dog Pyometra or uterine/womb infections are the following:

1. Loss of appetite 2. The dog is urinating and drinking more water than usual 3. Diarrhea and vomiting. 4. Only happens in female dogs and usually ones that are older or middle aged. 5. An open cervix, that is when a dog is in heat or season, may result in pus discharge from the vagina. This may be hard to notice as the dog may usually lick this off.

Pyometra will only happen or initiate during the dogs season or heat because when a female dog reaches this time it releases eggs from its ovaries which are used for fertilisation. Then, if the dog gets mated and the egg becomes fertilised by the sperm, the bitch will become pregnant and an embryo will develop. After this, these embryos will travel into the dogs womb where they will stay for up to about seven days for a placenta to develop. Once the placenta is developed it will attach itself to the side of the womb allowing the embryos to have food and oxygen from the mother. During the time the embryo is not attached to the placenta, the wall of the womb produces a fluid to accommodate for the lack of food and oxygen and to help the placenta grow.

When cells that attach themselves with the line of the womb and produce food and oxygen for the embryo become overactive and start producing too much fluid it causes pyometra. Stray bacteria from the body find this as the idea environment to breed. Over time, this worsens and turns into an infection.

When the dogs body realises that it has been infected and discovers this infection it releases thousands of white blood cells in order to fight the infection. As the white blood cells combat this infection those that have done their job will die and form the puss. In large quantities, puss can be very toxic to the dogs body and can make them very sick.

The dog will drink more water in order to flush this unwanted puss out. Drinking more water than usual will cause more urinating, vomiting and diarrhea and if the dog is still in season it may also cause a discharge through the vaginal area. Open cervix pyometra occurs when a dogs vagina is still open and leakage of unwanted puss is possible where as closed cervix pyometra occurs when the dog is out of season and thus the unwanted puss cannot leak out of the vagina in which case the puss builds up inside the dog and worsens the toxic effects.

The symptoms in your dog will start off as being mild and barely noticeable but over time they will start getting worse and reach a point where the toxins in the dogs body will cause it to collapse. Hence, the earlier you visit the vet and get treatment the better and safer the cure will be.

If your dog has been infected by open cervix pyometra the vet may want to know when your dog was last in season. If this was within the last two months or so and the dog had all the symptoms listed above such as diarrhea, drinking more water, vaginal discharge and vomiting it will confirm that the dog has been infected.

The symptoms get harder to prove if the dog has closed cervix pyometra because of no vaginal discharge. The vet will probably look out for a slightly sagging belly and if the other symptoms listed above also occur this will confirm their suspicion. Furthermore, the vet may also use ultrasound or X-ray in order to look for an enlarged womb and confirm whether the dog is infected by this condition or not.

After the vet has confirmed that your dog is infected by pyometra intravenous fluids via a drip line and antibiotics will be used to get the dog as healthy as possible before performing surgery. The surgery will consist of removing the diseased womb and ovaries and will be very similar to routine sterilisation although there will be a higher risk involved because of the illness of the dog and because all the toxins that have been built up inside of the dogs body will need to be removed completely after the surgery in order to avoid any damage or possible infections to the kidneys.

After the surgery the dog will be left on antibiotics and intravenous fluids so that any remaining toxins can be killed off. Once it seems as though the dog is recovering and eating and drinking consistently your vet will discharge the dog so it can go home and recover.

It may be important to note that in high value breeding dogs or in rare breeds the vet may make an effort and try to save the dogs womb and ovaries so it can continue breeding but this procedure is highly risky and can have further side effects that may end up worsening the dogs condition.

For more information on Dog Pyometra and Uterine or Womb Infections or Dog Health take a look at this Dog Training website.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_M_Williams

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How To Host a Workshop or Classes In Your Area

How To Host a Workshop or Classes In Your Area

Cant come to classes at our Burlington location?   No problem .... we can bring the training to you!!

Host a class in your backyard or at a local community centre.  Gather a few of your friends,  find a location, and call us!!  Well come to you.

Courses are priced based on number of people attending.   Please contact us for quotes.

You can even make a profit with this system.   We quote you a price & you can charge attendees whatever fee you like to cover your expenses (eg: if you have to rent a space) & have a little bit left over for your time/effort. 

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Is it the dogs or is it the people

Today I read an article titled "Dogs arent born mean, its the people that make them that way". It made me think of all the dogs that have a hard life or no life at all. Dogs that are tied out in yards with no human companionship, nobody to play with and left with no food or water. Then there are other dogs that are brought into this world for no other reason than to fight or be bait dogs.

I had read the above article shortly after receiving an e-mail from the Best Friends Animal Society announcing the decision for the dogs seized from Michael Vicks Infamous Kennel. The 22 at the Best Friends Shelter will be rehabilitated and then placed in appropriate homes when they are ready. Any that cannot be placed will live out their lives at Best Friends Animal Society. This was a great victory for the dogs, who are helpless animals without a voice.

So when I came across the "Dogs arent born mean" article in the Dallas News I thought how closely the articles are related. The article in the Dallas News reminds us that dogs are our responsibility and leaving them tied up in the yard and other cruel treatment is a tried and true way of making them mean.

The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention estimate that a dog routinely tethered or chained up is nearly 3 times more likely to bite than a dog thats fenced or kept indoors. According to a Pennsylvania based anti-tethering group, 194 children nationwide have been killed or maimed by chained dogs in the last 5 years. Domestic dogs dont choose to be chained, they are chained up and made prisoners by people.

Quoting from the Dallas news "Humans, disgracefully, do choose to mistreat them, neglect them, let them roam loose, chain them up, or egg them into aggressiveness." Does this mean get rid of a breed? No it means we need to stop the cruelty! If you choose to outlaw a mean breed the same, people making them fight will simply choose another breed. A veteran animal control officer in Louisiana recently told a television station "Ive seen the Chow go through that phase, and the Rottweiler and the Doberman... The Pit Bull has just hung in there longer than any of those dogs."

I think making stricter laws would help this situation. Some cities are considering limiting the number of animals a household can keep , require a universal requirement for pets to be spayed or neutered and BAN tethering of unsupervised dogs to polls or trees. This is a much more practical and humane way to help the situation than the almost impossible breed bans.

Breed Bans would not exist if it werent for individuals who tarnish the breeds name.

So take a look around and you decide.

Is it the dogs or is it the people?

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Heres A Really Quick Way To Train Your Dog Or New Puppy Do It Like The Professionals Do!

By Jim Olio

For a complete manual on training your dog as well as free dog training tips, the Sit Stay Fetch product is outstanding. As a dog owner, I have always wanted to learn more about the different methods and approaches used by professional dog trainers.. This is a complete guide which covers the basic and more advanced techniques.

This manual is just full of excellent information. How to choose the right dog for your family, where to find him or her, how to get your home ready for this new family member, how to deal with behavior problems, how to house train your new friend, what are the health issues that you need to be concerned about, and what are some advanced tricks that we can work on ? All of the above are covered in good detail, to help you make the right choices and decisions.

In addition to the contents listed above, there is also a pretty impressive section on dog whispering, which " in case you have not heard of it already " is a method of dog training based on a philosophy of clear communication and mutual respect. Its been popularized in recent years by Cesar Millan (The Dog Whisperer), and is becoming increasingly well-known as an alternative and humane method for disciplining and training your dog. SitStayFetch has dedicated an entire section to dog whispering: Daniel Stevens explains the background of the technique, how to utilize voice and body language to your best advantage, and how to use the technique to calmly, assertively, and effectively correct and train your dog. Step-by-set instructions are included for the common commands (sit, down, come, stay, quiet, etc).

Four bonus books are included in the package. Some of the information provided covers topics such as how to resolve aggressive behavior, how to groom your dog, what about dental care, help with house training, and using your dog for security.

There is such a wealth of knowledge provided with this package, that even an experienced dog handler will be impressed. You are even provided with an email address to receive free additional instruction or guidance and tips, if needed.

Many the methods provide a basic conventional approach to dog training while others will require more effort from both you and your dog in order to achieve some rather dramatic changes, as is the case with dog whispering. Because there is so much to choose from, you are free to select the best solution or approach for both you and your favorite pet.

If you thinking about getting a new dog, or if you just want to have more fun and enjoyment for both you and your best friend, look no further. This book with all its info and step by step guides will provide an interesting development exercise. I have been able to learn things that a lifetime around dogs could never teach me. Highly Recommended.

Sit Stay Fetch is available at our blog http://www.WhizDogs.com/blog and take advantage of the lowest prices at our Dog Training Store at WhizDogs.com/store

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jim_Olio

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Tasty Edible Disgusting or Not It Goes into a Dogs Mouth!

It does not matter if it is tasty, edible, disgusting or not, it will always end up in a dogs mouth. There seems to be no limit as to what our precious dogs find interesting to chew upon or eat.

Dogs seem to have an oral obsession for anything that looks of interest.

Young dogs seem to be the worst offenders; you can consider them young toddlers, as children seem prone to put things into their mouths, too.

Some researchers say it is an inherent throwback to the days when dogs had to hunt for a living.

For some reason undergarments, socks, stockings and pantyhose seem to be the most offending items our dogs like. Some say it is just a "ripe smell that attracts the dogs, however, it can be embarrassing and expensive all at the same time.

Food related objects also have a great appeal, from corncobs to plastic pop-up timers used for roasting meats.

Many dogs just chew and eat things because they are curious about them. Sometimes it becomes an addiction for certain dogs. When I speak of an addiction I am meaning a dog becoming addicted to say, chewing and swallowing small stones or gravel. These items create serious intestinal problems that require surgery and expensive veterinary bills,

What can we do? Actually nothing, other than keeping things out of our dogs reach, there is not much you can do. I know of no type of training that will teach a dog to keep things out of its mouth. A dog uses its mouth as we use our hands, so anything is fair game.

Here is a list of some of the common hazards that can be found in the home besides the dirty laundry (which needs to be kept in a hamper or in a closet with the door shut.)

Things rescued from the trash like diapers or tampons. Keep these things in closed containers, if your dog should decide to swallow either of these things, surgery would be necessary.

Sewing needles, things with thread on them, fishing hooks, safety pins, bottle caps, for some reason these bright shiny objects become an attraction. Should you see a thread or string hanging out of your dogs mouth, do not pull it out as you do not know where or what is on the other end. Call your vet at once.

Coins - pennies minted after 1982 contain zinc, not good for a puppy or dogs tummy and they need to be removed. Keep loose change up and out of reach.

Small toys or even rubber duckies have a way of finding their way into a dogs innards. Make certain any dog toys are large enough and do not have any eyes or other things that a dog can chew off.

Most household glues will not cause problems, but Gorilla Glue expands and creates a large glob of stuff. Surgery is required and at once.

Batteries, now who would want to chew a battery, not I say the mouse, but your dog might find it interesting and if it leaked and was swallowed it can cause serious problems. If it was a small battery and you are certain it was swallowed whole, you can try to induce vomiting by giving your dog a dose of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide. Call your vet for the exact amount, as it has to be given according to the dogs body weight.

I cannot imagine a dog swallowing refrigerator magnets, but it has been done and it has been known that they can swallow more than one. This is also very serious and you need to call and see your vet at once.

Well, who said that having a dog can be boring? Having a dog is one way to keep you alert and on your toes, especially through the first few years, when a dogs curiosity is at its peak.

The best advice I can give is to keep things picked up, do a double check on the floors and keep dirty laundry put away and out of reach. If you look at having a young dog around with the same insight, that you would have if you had a toddler around, you will save yourself a lot of money and a great deal of wear and tear on your dog.

Keeping our pets healthy is very beneficial not only to the pet, but to our pocketbooks. If the only time you need to visit the veterinarian is for yearly check ups and necessary shots you are saving money. Nutrition is very important in keeping a dog healthy, proper quality food that contains all the necessary vitamins and minerals is a good way to start. If this article has been of benefit, please visit my web site and blog at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Audrey_Frederick

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The German Shepherd or Alsatian Dog

By Edward Linton

The German Shepherd, also known as Alsatian, is a very intelligent dog with a very noble look, he has elegant flowing lines and intelligent expression. He is an active dog and an obedient worker. He has all the qualities to make him what is considered to be the ideal dog. He has a very good nature and is a natural sportsman, being nimble and fast he makes a fantastic pet or work dog. They enjoy being around people and other animals. German Shepherds are well suited to obedience training.

The Alsatian is most often black with tan but can also have variations of coat color including all black. There are three varieties of coat, rough coated (short), long rough coated and long haired.

As a working dog German Shepherds are suited to various jobs, some of the more obvious are police and guard dog, in this role they can be used to apprehend criminals, sniff out drugs and explosives and find lost people. They are also used by rescue associations to find people trapped in collapsed building or buried alive in disaster zones. German Shepherds can also be used as guide or help dogs due to their high level of intelligence they are ideally suited to the task.

In the case of the German Shepherd its history is not very old, in fact the dogs you see now have only been around since the end of the 19th century, which came about from a breeding amalgamation between various Shepherding dogs by Capt Max von Stephanitz who is classed the father of the breed.

There are lots of famous German Shepherds in the history vaults, this is due to the popularity of the breed and the versatile and intelligence of the animal. Some have even become movie stars such as The Littlest Hobo and Rin Tin Tin who made 26 movies and at his peak was receiving 10,000 fan letters a week. Others just have famous owners such as Clipper who was president Kennedy’s dog. Over the years German Shepherds have rescued and saved hundreds of lives either by being trained to or just because they love their owners.

The German Shepherd will live for approximately 10 to 12 years and will need lots of exercise, including a large play area or garden. You will have to give extensive training in the early years, but with its high ability to learn good training is essential. They will also shed hair all the time and seasonally it will shed heavily. Brushing twice weekly is recommended but if hair is a problem in the home daily brushing is recommended. Bathing should happen rarely and at the most only twice a year to avoid removal of essential skin oils. Watch out for hip problems as this is an area where German Shepherds are prone to having problems.

Above all if you decide to have a German Shepherd as a pet or working dog you will have a animal which is intelligent, loving, loyal and will give you lots of enjoyment.

If you would like more information, tips and secrets on training German Shepherd dogs check out http://www.usfreeads.com/741051-cls.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Edward_Linton

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House Training Your Puppy Or Dog

By Abbie Frank

One of the best things about having a pet is the companionship they offer. Many of the idealized dreams of pet owners have been destroyed by the inability to properly house train a new puppy or dog. This is unfortunate because with very few exceptions, teaching a dog to relieve themselves outside is one of the easier things to do.

Understand that dogs are pack animals and in the wild, they choose to be very social and interact with a group. When you take on dog ownership, you are seen as part of the pack. Canines also prefer to sleep in a very clean, dry and warm place. This means that a dog or puppy will not purposely soil what they see as their home and sleeping area.

The key then is to take this natural preference and use it to develop a positive behavior of asking to go outside to relieve themselves. The absolute best way of getting the behavior you want is to use lots of praise and positive reinforcement.

Yelling, raising your voice, threatening and getting aggravated or physical with your puppy or dog will not nearly be as effective as positive reinforcement and consistency on your part. A dog simply has a difficult time associating an action with a consequence. Its their desire however to make you happy so anything like going outside to the bathroom should be seen as something that makes you happy. This means lots of praise will get your puppy housebroken a lot faster than getting upset.

It also means that if your dog has an accident inside your home and you do not see it while its happening, you should not scold or say anything negative to your pup. And even better approach when you have to clean up a pile of poo is to ignore the dog completely. You dont want to show your displeasure because your puppy will not have the ability to associate your unhappiness with the bathroom accident. The reason for this is that you dont want to interact with the animal after finding something that you dont like.

You should also face the fact that your puppy or dog will have an occasional accident during the training. Its just a fact that there will be times when your puppy will not be able to control their bowels or bladder. If you catch them in the act of relieving themselves in your home however, simply pick them up and say firmly "NO" and take them directly outside to let them finish going to the bathroom.

Stay there with them and pay careful attention to make certain that they go. While outside, if they do indeed go potty, its very important that you focus on that positive and offer them lots of praise and physical contact heading for doing a good job. This helps connect bathroom business with outside and pleasing you.

Its only through patience and understanding that you can successfully potty train your dog. Although it doesnt take a lot of time, its important that you stay consistent with your training and realize that accidents will unfortunately happen.

Abigail Franks and her family love dogs of all sizes. Find out how to be successful with puppy potty training and crate training for your dog.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Abbie_Frank

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New Dog or Puppy Training Equipment Checklist

So youre bringing a new canine companion into your home, and you want everything to be ready for his arrival. If youre planning on training your dog (and you should definitely plan on it!), youll need to add some extremely important items to your new dog or puppy checklist. What follows are several training equipment checklists, broken into two categories for your convenience, with advice on what to get and why.

For Housebreaking/Crate Training

The crate:

Mountable water dish:

Washable bedding

Chew toys:

Carpet/Wood-Safe Cleaning Products:

A Baby Gate:

For Basic Obedience Training

A Training Lead:

A comfortable, quality collar:

If you can teach yourself how to properly use one, a "slip collar" can be a valuable asset in training sessions. If you dont take the time to talk to a trainer or read a book on dog training, however, it can be the exact opposite of an asset. If you do decide to use a slip collar, make sure you purchase one where the metal links are set very close together so as to avoid pinching. Also make sure that it is never left on the dog outside of training sessions, and dont allow children or inexperienced dog handlers to work with the dog while he is wearing the slip collar. For most dogs learning their basic obedience, a regular nylon or leather collar will work just fine. As with the leash, make sure the collar is of quality construction, and make sure it fits. It should be tight enough to stay around the dogs neck and not slip up over his head when tugged on, but loose enough for you to fit two fingers beneath.

Healthy, bite-sized treats:

Since youll probably be dispensing a number of treats during training sessions, try to get treats that are as healthy as possible and either come in or can be torn into bite-sized pieces. A perennial favorite for dog trainers everywhere are liver treats and "dog jerky," both of which are available at most pet stores.

A quiet place:

A quiet place will be one of your biggest assets in training your dog. Be it a spare bedroom, your backyard, or an empty plot of land, make sure your dogs "classroom" is guaranteed to be free from distractions and that people know not to bother you when you are working with the dog in your chosen area. The fewer furnishings, external noises, and interesting smells, the better!

While this list may be nowhere near comprehensive, were confident weve covered all the basic materials youll need to help your dog become an upstanding canine citizen and impressively well-mannered member of the family. Enjoy this exciting new journey youre about to embark upon!

While you may choose for your dogs training lead and his regular leash to be the same thing, you need to make sure that the lead you use for obedience training meets some basic criteria. For starters, the lead should be 6 feet long and made of a sturdy, but lightweight material. A flat leather leash works best, but a good quality nylon lead should work fine, too. Just avoid using a chain leash (far too heavy and noisy), a leash so cheap the stitching looks as though it will unravel with the slightest tug, or a a retractable leash that can be difficult to maneuver during training sessions and might intimidate the dog. Make sure that the leash will be comfortable to hold for long periods of time and that the handle end is solidly constructed.

While your dog is being housebroken, youll need a way to confine him in an easy-to-clean area such as the kitchen or a room with a hardwood or tile floor. An adjustable baby gate is one of the best ways to do this. Theyre relatively cheap, easy to set up and take down, and theyre a great way to keep your dog confined to a single area without making him feel as though hes missing out on all the action. Despite your best efforts, your dog will, at some point, have an accident in the house. Your best defense against stains and odors is to clean the area immediately. For both hard surfaces and carpeting, use paper towels or highly absorbent bath towels to thoroughly soak up as much of the urine as you can. For feces, simply scoop it up in a paper towel and toss it, then use clear water to rinse the spot, soaking up the water with a clean towel.

If theres still a spot, use a stain and odor remover formulated especially for pet problems (can be found at any pet supply store). When housebreaking a puppy, its always a good rule of thumb to carry a roll of paper towels wherever you go, especially as very young puppies are often unable to hold their bladders when theyre excited or frightened. Dont worry, though. Dog urine is an overall odorless liquid. Soaking it up and rinsing the area with clear water almost always proves effective, and you need not worry about using any harsher, more specialized products.Provide plenty of safe, sturdy chew toys to keep your dog entertained while he is crated. Avoid any toys that have plastic eyeballs or noses that could be torn off and swallowed, and avoid toys that have internal squeakers or filled toys like Beanie Babies.

If youre not looking for a mess, steer clear of fluff-filled stuffed animals Some good, no-fuss choices for the crated dog are rawhide bones, rubber Kong toys, and rope chews. Kongs, especially, come in a variety of sizes and have a hollow core that can be stuffed with peanut butter or treats that will keep your pet occupied for hours.: Dont overload the crate with bedding, but make sure that theres enough soft, comfortable material in the bottom of the crate to ward off drafts and keep your dogs bones and joints from getting sore. A good idea is to line the bottom of the crate with newspaper and then place the bedding on top of the paper. That way, if there is an accident (either spilled water or urination), you wont have to deal with a sloshy crate bottom. Of course, make sure that the bedding will stand up to many washings-old bath towels work great, as do sheepskin pads made specifically for crates. If the crate you buy does not come with one, youll need to get a small water dish that can be mounted to the interior of the crate, either on the wire (for a collapsible metal crate) or on the door (for an "airline kennel").

The water dish will not always be in the crate, but it should be available if your dog is to be crated for more than two or three hours at a time.Choose either a metal collapsible crate (make sure it has a solid, removable "pan" for a bottom or a sturdy plastic "airline kennel." If youre getting a puppy, make sure that the crate is large enough for him to grow into somewhat, but know that you may eventually have to replace the crate once your puppy has reached his full adult size. The crate should be large enough for the dog to stand up and turn around in, but no larger. This is because youll need the entire crate to act as a bed for the dog, as dogs instinctively shy away from soiling their sleeping space. Treating a crate solely as a sleeping space will automatically help train your dog to "hold it."

About The Author: Barry S. Mcgee is a pet enthusiast. His site at: http://www.squidoo.com/puppyanddogtraining covers all areas of dog training.

For answers to all your puppy and dog training questions, please visit: http://www.squidoo.com/puppyanddogtraining

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Barry_Mcgee

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Boxer Hound mkix up or adption

I am posting this to alert everyone of a wonderful 5 month old puppy up for adoption. She is a female Boxer/Hound mix. She has a wonderful temperament and is sweet as pie. She does great around other dogs and kids.

She would need a home where she gets lots of exercise and has a owner who will commit to training her. She wants to please and learns quickly. She is of course still a puppy and is still working on her house breaking. She loves toys and loves to play.

Please contact me if you are interested so we can set up a meeting. Thank You!!

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